Serious Pig

After perusing Pot on the Fire, I pulled down another one of John Thorne’s books, Serious Pig: An American Cook in Search of His Roots . John Thorne’s books always list his wife, Matt, as the co-author, a generous move in today’s world of wanting to be the center of everything. He writes in his introduction:

“Matt has considered every word of every draft, reacting, suggesting, amending, and hence, reshaping, what appears herein…this means that the subjective self who speaks out of these pages is a larger, braver, much more interesting person than that which belongs to me alone.”

That is the heart and soul of cooking, is it not. The people for whom we cook, react and amend our recipes, reshaping them. I don’t like nuts, you don’t like Brussels sprouts; cooking evolves with the voice of those around us and it makes for a richer, braver cooks.

My friend, Paul, is a chef. Every time he ate something I made he would say, “You know what would make this really good….” His girlfriend would get apoplectic, but I understand. Cooks are always adjusting and changing. It is why one cannot copyright a recipe. Each cook transforms a recipe. People who cook are constantly asking themselves that question: What would make this better?

I have a lot of chives planted and I have been looking for recipes for chive blossoms. In Serious Pig, Thorne discuses his romance with the Shakers. He provides a recipe attributed to Eldress Clymena or Sister Abigail from Ohio.

Blue Flower Omelet

4 eggs
4 tablespoons milk or water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of black pepper
1 tablespoon minced parsley
1 teaspoon minced chives
2 tablespoons best butter
12 chive blossoms

This delicious omelet can be made only when the chives are in full bloom. Take the eggs and beat them just enough to blend the whites and yolks well. Add milk or water, seasonings, and the minced parsley and chives. Melt butter in a heavy iron skillet; pour in the mixture. When the edges of the omelet begin to set, reduce the heat. With a pancake shovel [i.e., a spatula], slash uncooked parts until the bottom is well browned. Then sprinkle the washed blossoms over the omelet and fold. Serve immediately on a hot platter. The blue blossoms add a delicious flavor and interest to the dish.

I can't wait for the chives to bloom.

Pot on the Fire

Saying John Thorne writes about food is like saying Michelangelo paints ceiling. Thorne was food “blogger” before blogs existed. For years Thorne with his wife, Matt, have produced a newsletter called, Simple Cooking. While the cooking is simple, the essays from his newsletters are each like little dissertations on whatever his subject may be.

Take his chapter on Riso in Bianco, plain rice. But wait, not plain rice:

“Such dished fall under the loose rubric of risi in bianco. In Italian, bianco has two meanings: “white,” and “blank” or “empty.” Consequently, in culinary parlance, the term in bianco not only means “unadorned” or “served plain” but implies additionally an absence that is itself a kind of presence (as in the suggestive phrase, “blank check”).”

In his essay on plain rice, there are mentions of over ten cookbooks, and a dozen recipes, both formal and colloquial. Writing these few piddly words about the essay seem so very inadequate.
On the Lucindaville site, I posted my recipe for Lemony Egg Pasta. This is the rice equivalent.

Riso Con Limone Alla Piemontese

1/2 pound Italian rice, prepared as directed
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for the table
2-3 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt and fresh milled pepper to taste

While the rice cooks, separate the yolks into a small bowl and beat with a fork until frothy and well blended. Beat in the lemon juice and then stir in the Parmesan. When the rice is done, pour it into a sieve or colander and shake out any remaining liquid. Immediately return it to the saucepan and, with a large cooking spoon, stir in the egg-yolk-and-cheese mixture. Put the lump of butter on top and press it into the rice whit the spoon. Then put the pot on the burner over the lowest possible flame and let it sit there for 2 or, at most, 3 minutes – just long enough for the butter to melt completely. Mix it gently all through the rice, taste for salt, and mill over a generous amount of pepper. Serve at once in a warm bowl with the reserved Parmesan.

Lemon and rice, it couldn't be simpler or more complex.